Team Pro Enforcer Tips(needed):

[Steven A. Watkins]

Wanted to see what some people thought to what I am doing with my team pro enforcer:

1. I have tried to adjust my propeller downward a bit to help on the rise of the bow in the water,

2. I have lowered my rudders a bit also, they aren't even with transom anymore to try to make the boat a bit more stable,

3. I will be putting a new prop on three blade 70 mm(as reccommended by Jun & Tony),

4. I am having some trouble on what I should do with the trim tabs and reccommended adjustments, is their a video on this???

5. I also read Tony advice on engine compression, is this anything I need to do or can I hire it done, changing rings and pistons?

6. I have also purchased a DuraTrax 5-Cell 6.0V 1600mAh NiMH Hump Rx U to replace the 4 double A batteries inside the boat. The unit operated fine by just plugging in the new pack, no adjusting needed for my Futaba Jr. radio. Will this size of batteries work in my boat????

Thanks for the advice!

Steve

[Jun Mangahas]

. I have tried to adjust my propeller downward a bit to help on the rise of the bow in the water,
A: Set your prop level with the boat and use that as a bench mark.. If you want to raise your bow, raise your stinger a degree or 2 at a time.

2. I have lowered my rudders a bit also, they aren't even with transom anymore to try to make the boat a bit more stable,
A: Your rudder shoul at a minimum be parallel with you transom or swept back 5* degrees maximum so you will not barrel roll when turn.

3. I will be putting a new prop on three blade 70 mm(as reccommended by Jun & Tony),
A: You will have less prop walk to the right with a 3 blade compared to a 2 blade.

4. I am having some trouble on what I should do with the trim tabs and reccommended adjustments, is their a video on this???
A: take a 12" ruler and set its edge flat along the hull and set your trim tabs parallel to the ruler. This is what you call a Neutral setting. Raising it is positive setting, lowering it is negative setting. This also applies to your stinger or drive or prop shaft.

5. I also read Tony advice on engine compression, is this anything I need to do or can I hire it done, changing rings and pistons?
A: I suggest you get your boat set up first before you go level up to an M5 Head Kit or an M6 engine. A head is easy to do. WWH's site has a video gallery where you can learn a lot from Spend some time on it.

6. I have also purchased a DuraTrax 5-Cell 6.0V 1600mAh NiMH Hump Rx U to replace the 4 double A batteries inside the boat. The unit operated fine by just plugging in the new pack, no adjusting needed for my Futaba Jr. radio. Will this size of batteries work in my boat????
A: Definitely yes.

I am on the 10th year of my 2nd childhood and I refuse to grow up...

[Steven A. Watkins]

Below is an example of how I adjusted the prop and rudder. Thanks for all the help, I will move them back to neutral and only adjust the trim tabs on the side.

[Tony Castronovo]

Raising the prop = Raise the bow, Lowering= lowers the bow. Always use (lower) the trim tabs first with the drive and rudders parallel to put more boat in the water. The only reason you would use negative trim would be if the water conditions are just too rough. You can try to pull the rudders back slightly to raise the bow before raising the drive angle. Remember the drive angle has it's limitations to how far you can go up or down before the boat runs too wet, or you blow-out the prop. The (A) boat is at it's best when the rooster tail is low and long when dealing with surface drive. In running too much boat in the water you run the risk of what is known as "bow steering". This is the point where so much of the keel is in the water it will react with the rudder(s) very quickly and cause the boat to dart. These changes must be minimal and only one at a time, recording what you are doing between runs until you get the hull to handle its best in the conditions at hand. Today we have the ability to make engines 3 times the power as only ten years ago, and with this came an additional 10-20 miles per hour. There comes a point that depending on the hull design that we as model boaters must learn the limitations of these designs and water conditions, and that there is a reason we have a proportional trigger on the transmitted and not a push button switch.